Sun Moon Lake Guide for First Time Visitors in Taiwan

Sun Moon Lake is said to be one of Taiwan’s most beautiful natural landmarks – a serene alpine lake surrounded by misty mountains and temples.

But after spending two nights here for my birthday, I quickly realised Sun Moon Lake is the kind of place you need to visit with the right expectations.

That said, Sun Moon Lake is still absolutely worth visiting – you just need to know how to do it right. 

I’ll share everything you need to know about visiting Sun Moon Lake, including how to get there, where to stay, the best things to do and whether a day trip from Taichung is enough.

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What is Sun Moon Lake?

Sun Moon Lake is the largest lake in Taiwan and one of the country’s most famous natural attractions. Located in Nantou County in central Taiwan, the lake sits at the foot of the Central Mountain Range and is surrounded by temples, forested hills and scenic cycling paths.

The lake gets its name from its unique shape. One side resembles a round sun, while the other side curves like a crescent moon.

Today, Sun Moon Lake attracts millions of visitors each year who come for the peaceful scenery, boat rides across the lake and panoramic viewpoints like Ci’en Pagoda.

Although it is often included in Taiwan itineraries, it is best visited with the right expectations. Sun Moon Lake is not packed with attractions, but it is a beautiful place to slow down, enjoy the scenery and explore at a relaxed pace.

Many travellers visit on a day trip from Taichung, while others stay overnight to experience the lake at sunset and sunrise.

What to know before visiting Sun Moon Lake

• Sun Moon Lake can easily be visited from Taipei or Taichung. There are plenty of tourist buses running daily into the lake, though Taichung is a lot closer.
• Once at the lake, you can get around by the ring-around shuttle bus (Route 6670) which provides frequent transportation to the major attractions like Shuishe, Ita Thao and Xiangshan. The bus typically ends around 6 pm, so be sure to plan accordingly.
• Taxis here are very expensive in comparison to those in Taipei, but depending on where you stay, you likely won’t need to use them. We walked everywhere.
• There are boat shuttles that run across the lake and it has remained relatively pristine.

• There are no beaches and swimming is not allowed in the lake, apart from one annual swimming competition in September. This mass swim is one of the largest in the world, and you must register and pay for it two months in advance.
• There are pros and cons to travelling off-season, which is in winter/early spring. You will have a peaceful experience with fewer tourists, pleasant, cool weather and lower prices, however, most restaurants (even those inside hotels are closed) so you will struggle to find food. The hotel we stayed at had closed their one day kitchen, despite there being several other guests staying which was mind boggling. We were lucky to find one restaurant down the street that was open, and luckily they had an extensive vegetarian menu, but the only other option would have been a 7-Eleven!

Is a day trip to Sun Moon Lake worth it?

Many people visit Sun Moon Lake on a day trip from Taichung, and honestly, I think that is the best way to experience it.

We stayed for two nights, which in hindsight felt like too long. Sun Moon Lake is beautiful and peaceful, but there are not a huge number of attractions around the lake itself – especially once it gets dark. 

After a day of exploring boat hopping between temples, visiting Ita Thao and soaking up the outrageous views, we had already seen most of what we wanted to.

A day trip gives you enough time to experience the highlights without feeling like you are stuck in a very quiet destination with little to do in the evenings. This is especially true if you visit during the off season when many restaurants and hotels close early.

If you enjoy slow travel, lake views and relaxing hotels then staying overnight can still be lovely, particularly if you book one of the luxury lakeside hotels. But if you are short on time in Taiwan, visiting Sun Moon Lake as a day trip from Taichung is more than enough.

The journey from Taichung only takes around an hour, which makes it one of the easiest natural escapes from the city.

How to get to Sun Moon Lake

If you’re looking to get public transport, you’ll need to get to Taichung. I highly recommend spending two nights in Taichung before you head to Sun Moon Lake, as there are so many great things to see and do there. 

I’ve put together a full guide to the best things to do in Taichung if you’re planning to spend a little time in the city – don’t just use it as a quick stop.

From Taipei, you can get one of the many High Speed Trains (THSR) that run hourly to Taichung. Many travellers spend a few days exploring Taipei first, visiting places like Jiufen on a day trip from the city, before heading south to Taichung and Sun Moon Lake.

If you are planning your Taiwan itinerary, I’ve also shared a full guide to how to spend 3 days in Taipei.

Bus

From Taichung HSR station, you can get the Nantou Bus 6670 which takes 1 hour 15 minutes to get to Shuishe Pier at Sun Moon Lake. 

Taxi

We hailed a taxi from our hotel in Taichung to take us to our hotel in Sun Moon Lake, as this was the most convenient, time-saving option for us. The journey time door-to-door was just under an hour. Uber operates in Taiwan, so this was our best option.

Hire a car

Hiring a car is another convenient way to get to Sun Moon Lake as the roads in Taiwan are in great condition and the drivers are pretty considerate.

This option also gives you the flexibility to explore on your own terms, but also the ability to drive around to find restaurants outside of Sun Moon Lake if you are visiting in the off-season like we did.

Where to Stay in Sun Moon Lake

Where you stay in Sun Moon Lake is key – and you have two parts to choose from; Shuishe Pier and Itathao. 

Shuishe Pier

Shuishe Pier is ideal for quieter stays and a peaceful atmosphere in the evenings.

It’s known for more dramatic, panoramic views of the lake and mountains – and has a number of cafes, convenience stores. and bike rental shops. Shuishe Pier offers easy access to bus terminals from Taichung – and this is the side of the lake we stayed at.

Ita Thao

Staying in Ita Thao offers a livelier atmosphere with more tourists.

There is a bustling night and day market offering street food, more dining options as this side of the lake is more tourist-focussed and so accommodation is often cheaper here too. Ita Thao is in close proximity to the Sun Moon Lake Ropeway (cable car) and Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village too.

The best luxury hotels in Sun Moon Lake

The Lalu – best for luxury and views

If you want the most luxurious stay on the lake, The Lalu Sun Moon Lake is widely considered the best hotel in the region. With infinity pools overlooking the water and stunning minimalist design, it’s the perfect choice for couples visiting Sun Moon Lake.

→ Check prices and availability here.

Fleur de Chine – best for a relaxing splurge

Fleur de Chine is another wonderful luxury hotel with incredible views between Shuishe and Ita Thao. The rooms are marginally better priced, especially considering breakfast and dinner are included too. 

→ Check prices and availability here.

Mid-range hotels in Sun Moon Lake

Accommodations range from budget to uber luxe on Sun Moon Lake – and we thought we had booked somewhere decent in the middle. 

Wyndham Sun Moon Lake – best mid-range option

Wyndham Sun Moon Lake is a mid-range hotel in Ita Thao and one we were torn between booking. While this is clearly a chain, Fuli Hot Spring Resort felt more like a boutique hotel in the area we wanted to stay in – so it seemed like a no brainer. Until we arrived to disappointment.

While we were in Ita Thao, we went to the Wyndham and the lobby itself is far superior. Sure, this side of the lake is way more touristy, but I would most certainly stay here for one night if I were to visit Sun Moon Lake again.

→ Check prices and availability here.

Fuli Hot Springs Resort

We stayed at Fuli Hot Spring Resort which was within walking distance of Shuishe Pier, and unfortunately I wouldn’t recommend it.

I had pictured a tranquil birthday getaway. Somewhere scenic and peaceful with a nice hotel to come back to each evening. After staying at the best hotel in Taichung the night before, this place was even more of a let down.

Our experience was disappointing for a few reasons.

The room felt very dated.

Our room shocked me when we arrived. It was extremely dated, with dusty carpets and wood panelling throughout. The whole space felt unclean and it triggered my dust allergies almost immediately.

When we checked out, I noticed that the property actually has some much nicer renovated rooms. If we had been allocated one of those, the experience may have been completely different.

The service was not great.

The service here was noticeably less friendly than what we experienced elsewhere in Taiwan, which stood out because hospitality in Taiwan had been so consistently warm during our trip.

The restaurant situation was frustrating.

The on-site restaurant was closed for half of our stay because it was off-season. Even when it was open, there were very few vegetarian options available.

On our first evening I was offered a plate of salad, which made me laugh. Needless to say, we didn’t eat there.

If you want to see exactly what the room looked like, I show it in my Sun Moon Lake vlog. I didn’t take many photos at the time because I wanted to spend as little time in the room as possible.

The one thing it does have going for it is the location.

The location was excellent. We could walk everywhere on this side of the lake, including Shuishe Pier. There were also two great restaurants and a convenience store nearby.

The area itself was incredibly peaceful. In the evenings you could hear the crickets and cicadas in the trees, and the silence was slightly unnerving at first.

Unfortunately though, I have a very strong aversion to dingy, dusty hotel rooms. You know the type where you don’t even want your feet touching the carpet. This was exactly that kind of place.

I love nothing more than a nice room to come back to in the evenings!

Where to eat in Sun Moon Lake as a vegetarian

We had two great dinners in Sun Moon Lake and ate some delicious street food.

Shan Hu Kitchen

This little restaurant was such a great find on our last night at Sun Moon Lake! All the restaurants on our side of the lake were closed, including those inside hotels and our own one! I’d resigned myself to buying some snacks for dinner at 7-Eleven, when we came across Shan Hu; a casual, home-style cooking Taiwanese restaurant with an extensive vegetarian menu.

The food here was incredible, and the service fabulous too! Run by a young lady and her elderly grandmother who used hand gestures to direct people where to sit. The young lady was rushed off her feet taking orders, payments and I think cooking some of the food too. 

She spoke excellent English and explained to us that restaurants tend to close in the evenings because of the lack of tourists – yet this place had a queue out the door at a few points in the evening. She had considered closing too, but made a last minute decision to open – and was surprised at how busy they were. 

It was a lucky find, made even better with such great food. 

Sun Moon Restaurant

We dined here on our first night as it was conveniently located across the road from our hotel. I had spotted they have numerous vegetarian dishes on the menu, and the restaurant was full of locals – which is always a good sign.

We tend to skip either breakfast or lunch when we are travelling in Asia due to the heat. On this particular day, we were starving and so we accidentally ordered a feast!

The food was great, alongside the service too. A slightly more up-market restaurant where some people dressed for dinner, so the prices reflect that.

Street food in Ita Thao 

You’ll find plenty of vegetarian-friendly street food in Ita Thao. I had some great food at ​​Raohe night market in Taipei, but the options in Ita Thao were even better! 

We had tornado potato skewers, millet mochi, dumplings, cabbage buns and tea eggs. There were so many more options, especially if you have a sweet tooth.

Best things to do in Sun Moon Lake

Despite being a fairly quiet destination, there are still plenty of lovely ways to spend your time here. Most of the best things to do in Sun Moon Lake revolve around the lake itself, with temples, viewpoints and scenic cycling routes dotted around the shoreline.

These are the highlights I would recommend.

Take a boat tour ​​across Sun Moon Lake

One of the easiest and most scenic ways to explore Sun Moon Lake is by ferry.

Small passenger boats run between the three main piers around the lake. We started in Shuishe, stopped at Xuanguang Temple Pier and then continued to Ita Thao.

You can hop on and off as you please, which makes it a very relaxed way to explore different areas of the lake.

The ferry also gives you some of the best views of the surrounding mountains and temples from the water.

Boat ride prices and schedule:

• One way ticket: 100 NTD
• Round trip ticket: 300 NTD
• Boats run from 8:00 AM to 5:30 PM
• Departures every 15 to 30 minutes

You can purchase tickets in advance or on the day.

While crossing the lake you will also spot Lalu Island, a tiny island in the centre of Sun Moon Lake that is sacred to the Thao people. It is considered to be the home of the Thao people’s ancestral spirits. Visitors are not allowed to step onto the island, but it makes for a beautiful view from the boat.

Visit Xuanguang Temple

Xuanguang Temple‭ was the first pier we stopped at on our boat trip.

At the base of the temple you will find a small vendor selling what are widely considered some of the best tea eggs in Taiwan. Tea eggs are pretty much Taiwan’s answer to protein bars!  

These are simmered with mushrooms, spices and local tea leaves, giving them a much richer flavour than the ones you typically find in convenience stores.

After grabbing a tea egg, you can walk up the staircase behind the temple to Xuanzang Temple (similar name, different temple).

This temple is much quieter and fewer visitors make the climb. When we visited the steps were quite slippery because of the rain, but the view from the top overlooking the lake and Lalu Island is worth the effort.

Cycle around Sun Moon Lake

Cycling around Sun Moon Lake is one of the most popular activities here.

You can rent bikes near Shuishe Pier and ride sections of the lakeside cycling trail. The Xiangshan section is widely considered the most scenic, with a beautiful boardwalk built directly over the water.

The views across the lake and mountains are stunning from this stretch.

If you are feeling more adventurous, you can cycle the full circuit of the lake which is around 33 kilometres. This usually takes around three to four hours and includes some hills along the way – so it’s a lot more challenging.

Ride the Sun Moon Lake Ropeway

The Sun Moon Lake Ropeway is a cable car that connects Ita Thao with the Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village.

The ride takes around seven minutes and offers panoramic views across the lake and surrounding mountains.

Tickets cost 300 NTD and include entry to the amusement park.

We actually skipped this because the weather was misty and drizzly when we visited. Having ridden plenty of cable cars around the world, we knew the views would not be great in those conditions.

I had also read that Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village is not worth a stop.

If you visit on a clear day though, it can be a fantastic way to see the lake from above.

Climb Ci’en Pagoda for the best view

There are several viewpoints around Sun Moon Lake, but in my opinion Ci’en Pagoda offers the best view of the entire lake.

You do have to work for it.

The walk uphill takes around ten to fifteen minutes and once you reach the pagoda you can climb to the top for an incredible panoramic view. From here you can really see the shape of Sun Moon Lake and the mountains that surround it.

The pagoda was built by President Chiang Kai Shek in memory of his mother and stands 46 metres tall across nine tiers.

There is no entry fee.

If you are deciding between this viewpoint and the ropeway, I would personally choose the pagoda. The views are very similar.

Visit Wenwu Temple

Wenwu Temple is one of the most iconic landmarks at Sun Moon Lake.

The temple sits above the lake and is known for its bright orange rooftops, which look especially striking against the blue water and green mountains behind it.

Even if you are not particularly interested in temples, it is worth visiting for the view alone.

Try some local black tea

Taiwan is famous for its oolong tea, but Sun Moon Lake is actually known for producing some of the best black tea in the country.

The most famous varieties include Ruby Red 18 and high mountain Alishan black tea.

You can visit tea farms around the Sun Moon Lake region or stop by the Hohocha tea factory, where you can learn about tea production and try a variety of tea based snacks.

We kept things simple and stopped at a small tea shop in Ita Thao instead.

The owner spoke very little English but patiently demonstrated the entire brewing process for us. She brewed multiple cups of the same tea, each steeped for longer than the last so we could taste how the flavour changed.

Even though I am not much of a tea drinker, it ended up being one of my favourite experiences at Sun Moon Lake. We purchased some tea to bring home the best kind of souvenir.

Sun Moon Lake 1 day itinerary

If you are visiting Sun Moon Lake on a day trip, it is easy to see the highlights in one day without rushing. This is how I would plan a simple Sun Moon Lake itinerary.

Morning

Arrive at Shuishe Pier from Taichung in the morning and start your visit with a ferry across the lake.

The ferry is one of the easiest ways to see Sun Moon Lake and it stops at the main areas including Xuanguang Temple Pier and Ita Thao. The views from the water are beautiful, especially on clear days when you can see the mountains surrounding the lake.

Stop at Xuanguang Temple to try the famous tea eggs before continuing across to Ita Thao.

Lunch

Spend some time exploring Ita Thao village and the street food market.

This is one of the liveliest parts of Sun Moon Lake and a great place to try local snacks. We found plenty of vegetarian options here including dumplings, cabbage buns and mochi.

You can also take the ropeway from Ita Thao if the weather is clear.

Afternoon

In the afternoon, head to Ci’en Pagoda for one of the best views of Sun Moon Lake.

The short uphill walk takes around ten to fifteen minutes and the view from the top of the pagoda is incredible. From here you can see the full shape of the lake and the surrounding mountains.

If you have extra time, rent a bike and cycle a section of the lakeside trail near Xiangshan. The boardwalk over the water is one of the most scenic parts of the lake.

Finish your visit with a stop at a tea shop to try Sun Moon Lake black tea before heading back to Taichung.

If you’re looking for fast-paced cities and endless attractions, you will probably find Sun Moon Lake a little quiet. But if you want a peaceful escape surrounded by mountains, temples and lake views, it is a beautiful place to slow down for a day.

Taiwan has several destinations like this. If you enjoy slower travel, you might also like visiting Jiaoxi Hot Springs, a small town known for its natural hot springs and laid back atmosphere.

In my opinion, the best way to experience Sun Moon Lake is on a day trip from Taichung. This gives you enough time to take the ferry across the lake, climb Ci’en Pagoda and try the famous local black tea.

If you are travelling through central Taiwan, it is also worth spending some time exploring Taichung, one of the more underrated cities in the country with great food, markets and cultural attractions.

If you do decide to stay overnight, choose one of the luxury lakeside hotels so you can fully enjoy the atmosphere and views, especially if you are visiting as a couple.

Either way, Sun Moon Lake remains one of Taiwan’s most iconic landscapes and a worthwhile stop on any Taiwan itinerary.

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Read more about planning a trip to Taiwan:

• 40+ Unique Things to Do in Taipei for First Time Visitors
• How To Participate in Secret Fortune Telling at Longshan Temple Taipei
• Day Trip to Jiufen: Is it Worth it & How to Plan the Perfect Day
• 3 Days in Taipei: The Best Itinerary for First-Time Visitors
• Jiaoxi Hot Springs: What It’s Really Like + Is It Worth Visiting?
• Things to Do in Taichung We Wish We Had More Time For
• Where to Stay in Taichung: Le Méridien Taichung Review
• Sun Moon Lake Guide for First Time Visitors in Taiwan