7 Day German Christmas Market Itinerary by Train in Bavaria

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I spent a week exploring Christmas markets across Bavaria and discovered that the most famous market wasn’t necessarily my favourite. Nuremberg had the traditional festive atmosphere I’d been hoping for, but a palace market in Regensburg completely stole the show.

Jass and I spent seven days travelling between Nuremberg, Regensburg and Munich by train, staying two nights in each city. Our friend joined us in Nuremberg, which made the first part of the trip even more fun, especially when we could share food and try different festive drinks.

This was my first time visiting Christmas markets abroad and I quickly realised how different they all are. Some were beautifully decorated but sold similar products, others had more unusual gifts and a few were so crowded that browsing became difficult.

I was also impressed by how many vegan options we found, both at the markets and in the cities themselves.

If you’re planning a German Christmas market itinerary in Bavaria without hiring a car, here’s the route we followed, which markets I’d prioritise and what I’d do differently.

Our 7 Day Bavaria Christmas Market Itinerary

We spent six nights travelling through Bavaria by train. This route worked well because we could explore each city on foot and enjoy the markets in the evening without rushing back to another destination.

Here’s how I’d organise the week:

• Day 1 – Fly into Nuremberg: Explore the old town, Hauptmarkt and the main Christkindlesmarkt. Return after dark if you have the energy.
• Day 2 – Nuremberg Christmas markets: Visit Kinderweihnacht, the Sister Cities’ Market, Nuremberg Winter Village and Handwerkerhof. Spend the rest of the day trying festive food and exploring the historic streets.
• Day 3 – Nuremberg Castle and Regensburg: Explore the castle area, stop at Pilatushaus to see its Advent calendar windows and visit anything you missed before taking an evening train to Regensburg.
• Day 4 – Regensburg Christmas markets: Explore the Stone Bridge, Stadtamhof and old-town markets during the day. Save Thurn und Taxis Palace for the evening.
• Day 5 – Regensburg to Munich: Enjoy a relaxed breakfast and a little shopping before travelling to Munich. After checking into your hotel, either have a quiet evening or head to Marienplatz for a first look at the Christmas market.
• Day 6 – Munich Christmas markets: Explore Viktualienmarkt and Marienplatz first, followed by the Residenz Christmas Village and Medieval Christmas Market at Wittelsbacherplatz.
• Day 7 – BMW Welt and travel home: Enjoy a non-market activity before heading to the airport.

Two nights in each city felt like the right amount of time. We had enough time to see the main markets, explore beyond them and enjoy evenings without constantly watching the clock.

We were beginning to experience Christmas market fatigue by the time we reached Munich, so having the option of a quieter evening was welcome. If you’re feeling energetic, though, Marienplatz is a lovely place to start exploring.

For the latest market dates and opening times, I’ve included official visitor websites throughout this guide.

Days 1–3: Nuremberg Christmas markets

Nuremberg was my favourite city for its traditional Christmas atmosphere.

We arrived at around 9:30am after being awake since 3am, dropped our luggage at The Cloud One Nürnberg and headed straight into the old town.

Even before the market stalls had properly opened, the streets were beautifully decorated. With its half-timbered buildings and festive decorations, Nuremberg felt much more traditional than the Christmas markets I’d visited in London.

Nuremberg Christkindlesmarkt at Hauptmarkt

The Nürnberger Christkindlesmarkt takes place in Hauptmarkt, the city’s main square.

This is the classic German Christmas market scene, with rows of red-and-white wooden stalls surrounded by historic buildings.

We spent plenty of time browsing decorations, gifts and festive food, although one thing surprised me: a lot of the stalls seemed to sell similar products.

I’d expected more variety, particularly when it came to gifts. While I loved the atmosphere, I found some of the smaller markets more interesting for shopping.

We also stopped at the Schöner Brunnen, the ornate fountain in the square. There’s a golden ring set into the surrounding ironwork that’s said to bring good luck if you spin it, so naturally Jass had to give it a go.

Nearby, we visited the Frauenkirche, the beautiful church overlooking the market.

If you only have one evening in Nuremberg, this is where I’d spend it. The views from the bars overlooking the market are pretty spectacular too.

The historic setting is what makes the market special, even if the stalls aren’t all particularly unique.

Kinderweihnacht and the Sister Cities’ Market

On our second day, we explored Nürnberger Kinderweihnacht at Hans-Sachs-Platz and the Markt der Partnerstädte, also known as the Sister Cities’ Market.

Kinderweihnacht was particularly charming, with traditional wooden huts and a small Ferris wheel. Even if you’re not travelling with children, it’s worth walking through because it has a different atmosphere from the main market.

The Sister Cities’ Market offers something different again, with stalls representing Nuremberg’s international partner communities.

I liked how easy it was to walk between the different market areas without needing public transport.

If you have a full day in Nuremberg, I’d explore these smaller markets alongside the old town rather than spending the entire day at Hauptmarkt.

Nuremberg Winter Village (Nürnberger Winterdorf)

Another market we visited was Nuremberg Winter Village (Nürnberger Winterdorf), which I really enjoyed because it felt more spacious and less crowded during the day than the main Christkindlesmarkt.

There were also some fun stalls with distorted mirrors and photo booths with props, which made it feel a little different from the more traditional markets we’d explored.

We stopped here for some glühwein and enjoyed being able to wander around without having to squeeze through the crowds.

What we ate and drank in Nuremberg

One of the best things about having our friend with us was being able to share food, particularly as she is vegan. 

I mostly eat a plant-based diet, so this meant we could try several things without buying a whole portion each.

We sampled traditional lebkuchen, including a pistachio version. Our friend also found some vegan gingerbread bites that were surprisingly good. They had plenty of spice without being overly sweet.

We also tried several festive drinks. I ordered rosé glühwein, our friend had a hot apple-and-vodka drink and Jass tried eggnog (gross).

We also found a stall serving hot chocolate with rum and Oatly, which was a welcome discovery. It was absolutely delicious!

Outside the markets, we had a particularly fun dinner at Bodhi, a vegan restaurant where the three of us ordered different dishes and shared them.

I loved being able to try vegan versions of traditional German dishes, particularly the schnitzel.

We also visited Katzentempel, a vegan cat café, on our final morning.

I’d already been impressed by the plant-based food scene during previous trips to Berlin, so it was lovely finding more vegetarian and vegan options in Bavaria too. If you’re exploring more of Germany, I’ve also shared my favourite vegan restaurants in Berlin.

If you’re vegetarian or vegan, I’d look up a few restaurants alongside the markets. We found some excellent places to eat, but it’s still worth checking ingredients at individual stalls.

Nuremberg Castle and the old town

On our final day, we made time to explore Nuremberg beyond the Christmas markets.

We wandered through streets lined with half-timbered houses, visited Handwerkerhof near the train station and walked up towards Nuremberg Castle for views over the city.

We also stopped at Pilatushaus to see its traditional Advent calendar windows. I loved how the Christmas decorations weren’t limited to the markets themselves, with little festive details to discover as we wandered through the old town.

The climb was steeper than we’d expected!

It was also surprisingly warm, around 13°C, which felt ridiculous considering we’d packed thermals.

I loved how peaceful some of the streets were once we moved away from the busiest market areas.

I’d save the castle area for daylight, when you can enjoy the views, and visit the main Christmas market after dark for the festive atmosphere.

Having an evening train to Regensburg meant we could enjoy most of our third day in Nuremberg without rushing.

Getting from Nuremberg to Regensburg by train

We caught an evening train from Nuremberg to Regensburg, which took approximately an hour.

We’d booked our tickets in advance through Omio but hadn’t reserved seats.

At the station, we discovered that not every carriage was travelling to Regensburg, so we needed to check which section of the train to board.

Thankfully, we worked it out before getting on!

Always check the destination and carriage information displayed at the station, particularly when travelling on a service that splits along the route.

Booking our trains in advance was super easy on the app but also helped us plan our hotel stays. We knew when we’d arrive in each city, so we could choose accommodation that was convenient for the stations without sacrificing too much sightseeing time.

I’d recommend an afternoon or evening departure for this part of the itinerary. It gives you extra time in Nuremberg without affecting your full day in Regensburg.

Days 3-5: Regensburg Christmas markets

Regensburg was the biggest surprise of our trip.

I’d been particularly excited about Nuremberg, but I ended up loving Regensburg’s smaller markets, colourful streets and independent shops.

We stayed at Eurostars Park Hotel Maximilian, within walking distance of the train station.

After checking in, we went for dinner at a Mexican restaurant called Guacamole before getting an early night.

With one full day to explore, we planned to visit the old town and smaller markets during daylight before heading to Thurn und Taxis in the evening.

Regensburg’s Old Town, Stone Bridge and Stadtamhof

We started by wandering through the narrow streets of the old town, admiring the colourful buildings and Christmas decorations.

We walked down to the Danube River, crossed the historic Stone Bridge and explored Stadtamhof on the other side.

It was a gloomy day, so the bridge looked quite different from the sunny photographs I’d seen online, but I still enjoyed exploring the area.

We also stopped to admire the huge painted façade of the Goliath House.

At one point, we walked over to the Katharinenspital Advent Market, only to discover it wasn’t open yet. We hadn’t checked its opening time beforehand, and we didn’t return later to explore it.

That was a useful reminder that markets within the same city don’t necessarily follow identical schedules.

You can find information about Regensburg’s different Christmas markets on the official Regensburg tourism website.

Lucrezia-Markt at Kohlenmarkt and Haidplatz

The market areas at Kohlenmarkt and Haidplatz are part of Regensburg’s Lucrezia-Markt.

They’re relatively small, but I found the stalls more interesting than some of those in Nuremberg.

There seemed to be more individual, handmade-looking products rather than lots of vendors selling similar decorations.

We also watched someone making chimney cakes, rolling dough around a cylinder before coating it in sugar. They smelled incredible.

My favourite experience here, though, was at a drinks stall in Haidplatz.

The people working there were so friendly that they let Jass and me sample several different varieties of mulled wine and festive punch.

I don’t usually like wine unless it’s mulled, but one of the drinks was easily the nicest I’d tried during the trip.

Jass also ordered a hot apple drink with amaretto.

I’d particularly recommend these smaller market areas if you enjoy browsing gifts. They felt more individual than some of the larger markets we visited.

Regensburger Christkindlmarkt at Neupfarrplatz

The Christmas market at Neupfarrplatz was noticeably bigger than the smaller markets we’d explored earlier.

The stalls were arranged around the church, and there was a children’s carousel alongside a good selection of gifts and decorations.

I particularly liked browsing the decorative German houses, jewellery and artwork.

Some items were more affordable than I’d expected, although there were also more expensive pieces.

What I enjoyed about Regensburg was how easily we could walk between the markets.

We could browse for a while, wander down another pretty street and find ourselves in the next square within minutes.

I’d visit Neupfarrplatz alongside Kohlenmarkt and Haidplatz during the day. They’re close enough to explore together, leaving your evening free for Thurn und Taxis.

Thurn und Taxis Palace Christmas market

Thurn und Taxis Palace Christmas Market was my favourite individual market of the entire trip. It is also called the Romantic Christmas Market or Romantischer Weihnachtsmarkt.

Unlike the other markets we’d visited, this one charged an entrance fee.

I was initially unsure whether paying to enter a Christmas market would be worth it, but once we arrived, I completely understood the appeal.

As we approached the palace, we could hear carol singers.

The market takes place in the grounds of St. Emmeram Palace, with beautifully decorated stalls, festive lighting and plenty of space to wander around.

It was absolutely magical.

Although there were plenty of visitors, it didn’t feel chaotic. We could browse the stalls and enjoy the atmosphere without constantly squeezing through crowds, which made such a difference.

I also loved knowing that the palace is still a private residence. There was something special about walking around the grounds with the grand building illuminated beside us.

We spotted alpacas, Jass bought churros, and I tried Schupfnudeln, traditional German potato noodles served with cabbage. Or at least the vegetarian version without bacon.

They reminded me a little of gnocchi, and it was lovely to try something different.

If you only have one evening in Regensburg, I’d spend it here without hesitation.

I’d recommend visiting after dark to appreciate the illuminated palace and festive atmosphere, and allowing at least a couple of hours rather than rushing through.

For current admission details and opening times, visit the official Thurn und Taxis Christmas Market website. It’s well worth paying an entrance fee for this one.

A final morning in Regensburg

Before leaving for Munich, we had time for breakfast and a little shopping.

One of my favourite things about Regensburg was its independent shops.

I’d spotted a colourful jumper the previous day, tried it on and decided not to buy it.

Naturally, I spent the rest of the day regretting that decision.

Thankfully, we had enough time before our train to go back and buy it.

It’s a small memory, but it sums up what I liked about Regensburg. There was plenty to enjoy beyond the Christmas markets, and I appreciated having time to wander without a strict plan.

If you’re following this itinerary, I’d keep your final morning flexible rather than scheduling another major attraction.

Getting from Regensburg to Munich by train

We’d booked our tickets through Omio again, but only the night before to give us some flexibility on how we wanted to divide our time.

Our journey from Regensburg to Munich took approximately two hours and involved a connection. We had a fairly short change between platforms, so we needed to keep an eye on the departure information.

Fortunately, everything went smoothly.

I’ve experienced far too many train disruptions during previous trips to Berlin, so I was relieved that our journeys around Bavaria went largely to plan.

Ordinarily, you can get a direct train from Regensburg to Munich but there was maintenance work taking place on the tracks when we visited, hence the connection.

Check whether your chosen service is direct or requires a change, and avoid planning an especially tight connection if you’re travelling with luggage.

We arrived in Munich with enough time to check into our hotel and settle in before our full sightseeing day.

Days 5-7: Munich Christmas markets

Munich was the final stop on our itinerary.

We stayed at Moma1890 Boutique Hotel, close to München Ost station.

I really liked the hotel, although the location wasn’t quite as convenient for the old town as I’d hoped.

Viktualienmarkt and Marienplatz Christmas market

We started with breakfast bagels at Emmi’s Kitchen, a vegan café. Finding good vegan breakfast spots is something I always look out for when travelling, and I’ve also shared my favourite vegan-friendly breakfast spots in Berlin if you’re planning another German city break.

Afterwards, we wandered through Viktualienmarkt, Munich’s famous food market, which had a festive atmosphere during our visit.

I was surprised by how quiet the area seemed for such a big city.

From there, we walked to Marienplatz, home to the Münchner Christkindlmarkt.

The first thing that caught my attention was the incredible New Town Hall.

It’s such a dramatic building, and the architecture makes a beautiful backdrop for the Christmas stalls.

We explored the market and surrounding streets, spotting everything from festive gifts to an enormous vegan bratwurst that I never got around to trying.

At one point, we wandered inside the New Town Hall and started climbing a staircase, only to discover that the area was closing. We were eventually shown the way out!

If you only have time for one Christmas market in Munich, I’d choose Münchner Christkindlmarkt at Marienplatz for the impressive setting and traditional atmosphere.

Christmas Village at the Munich Residenz

Later that evening, we went looking for the Christmas Village at the Munich Residenz.

Finding the entrance was surprisingly difficult. We walked past it, doubled back and spent a while trying to work out where we were supposed to go.

Once we finally found it, I was expecting a relatively quiet, traditional market.

Instead, it was absolutely packed.

We visited on a Friday evening, which probably contributed to the crowds, but I found it difficult to browse properly.

People kept bumping into us and it was my least favourite market of the trip in terms of atmosphere.

However, it was also where we discovered some of the best food.

Jass and I shared Käsespätzle, a traditional German cheese-and-noodle dish with caramelised onions.

It was delicious, although I thought it needed a little heat in the form of Tabasco. I like my macaroni and cheese with some spice!

We also bought corn on the cob, which turned out to be one of the best things I ate at any Christmas market that week.

I know it sounds like an odd thing to rave about, but it was incredible.

We also spotted some unusually realistic chocolates shaped like cameras, cheese graters and kitchen utensils.

They were among the most interesting gifts I’d seen at any of the markets.

I’d still consider visiting the Residenz for its food and unusual gifts, but if you dislike crowds or have limited time, I’d prioritise Marienplatz and Wittelsbacherplatz instead.

I also wouldn’t assume the Residenz market will be quiet simply because it’s tucked away from the main square.

Medieval Christmas market at Wittelsbacherplatz

After leaving the Residenz, we almost headed back to our hotel.

Then I noticed another Christmas market I’d saved on Google Maps, so we decided to visit one last market.

This was the Medieval Christmas Market at Wittelsbacherplatz.

I immediately liked the distinctive wooden huts, which looked different from the stalls we’d seen elsewhere.

Initially, it also seemed a little more spacious, but unfortunately, it was very busy too.

By this point, we’d been walking around all day, and I was more than ready to head back.. but not before buying a chimney cake to share!

I’d choose Wittelsbacherplatz over the Residenz if I wanted a more unusual market setting, although both were crowded during our visit.

If possible, I’d try visiting earlier in the day rather than on a busy Friday evening.

Day 7: BMW Welt and travelling home

By our final morning, Jass and I were completely Christmas marketed out.

We had several hours before our flight, so rather than visiting another market, we decided to go to BMW Welt.

BMW Welt is an exhibition and experience centre showcasing BMW and other vehicles. Entry was free when we visited, although the separate BMW Museum charged admission.

I’m not overly interested in cars, but I genuinely enjoyed the interactive aspects of the place.

There were interactive displays, interesting vehicles and plenty to explore.

Jass took part in a QR-code treasure hunt and won a tiny box of chocolates.

I’m not entirely sure the prize was worth the effort, but he seemed happy!

I also spotted a Rolls-Royce I rather liked and suggested that Jass could buy it for me for Christmas.

Unfortunately, that didn’t happen.

BMW Welt was a fun way to finish the trip, and I’d recommend it if you’re looking for something to do in Munich that doesn’t involve another Christmas market.

Where we stayed during our Bavarian Christmas market trip

We spent two nights in each city rather than staying in one place and taking day trips.

These were our hotels:

• The Cloud One Nürnberg, Nuremberg: Convenient for the train station and a good choice if you’re arriving by train or continuing to Regensburg.
• Eurostars Park Hotel Maximilian, Regensburg: Within walking distance of the station and a manageable walk into the old town. Its grand exterior was impressive, although our room felt a little dated.
• Moma1890 Boutique Hotel, Munich: A lovely boutique hotel near München Ost station, but I’d consider staying closer to Marienplatz if your main priority is exploring the Christmas markets on foot.

For this route, I’d pay particular attention to how easily you can reach both the train station and the old town.

How to plan a German Christmas market trip by train

Travelling between Nuremberg, Regensburg and Munich by train was straightforward, and I’d happily do it again. We booked all our tickets through Omio, although we booked the Regensburg to Munich leg the night before to keep our plans flexible.

Our journeys were:

• Nuremberg to Regensburg: Approximately one hour.
• Regensburg to Munich: Approximately two hours, including a connection due to maintenance work during our visit.
• Munich to Nuremberg: Approximately one hour by train, plus additional time to travel from Nuremberg’s main station to the airport. Remember to allow enough time for check-in and security too.

Journey times vary by service, so check train schedules before booking accommodation or arranging travel on the day of your flight.

How much time should you allow at each Christmas market?

Based on our experience, I’d suggest:

• Nuremberg Christkindlesmarkt: Around one to two hours for an initial visit, longer if you’re eating or shopping.
• Nuremberg’s smaller markets: Explore them together during your full sightseeing day.
• Regensburg’s old-town markets: Allow a few hours to visit Kohlenmarkt, Haidplatz and Neupfarrplatz alongside the historic sights.
• Thurn und Taxis: At least a couple of hours, preferably in the evening.
• Munich’s city-centre markets: Most of the day if you want to visit all four areas we explored.

These are suggested allowances rather than fixed visit durations. I preferred having time to wander rather than rushing through every market just to tick it off a list.

What I’d do differently next time

If I planned this route again, the main thing I’d change would be our return flight.

We flew into Nuremberg and booked our flight home from there too.

We had considered flying home from Munich, but it was much more expensive and the airline route we wanted wasn’t available.

As a result, we had to travel back to Nuremberg from Munich by train for our evening flight.

It worked, but it made our final day unnecessarily long.

After visiting BMW Welt, we returned to our hotel to collect our luggage, took the train back to Nuremberg and then continued to the airport.

By the time we finally got home, we were exhausted.

If you’re planning the same itinerary, I’d compare the cost of flying into Nuremberg and home from Munich against booking a return flight to Nuremberg. Although the return flight might be cheaper, remember to factor in the extra train journey, the transfer to Nuremberg Airport and the additional travel time.

Apart from that, I wouldn’t change our route or the two-night stays.

Practical tips for visiting the Bavarian Christmas markets

Check market opening times before visiting

Not all Christmas markets follow the same opening hours, so check each market’s official website before planning your day.

Wear comfortable shoes and pack layers

We walked around 18,000 steps on many days of the trip, so comfortable shoes were essential.

The weather also varied considerably.

We experienced a surprisingly warm day in Nuremberg, followed by much colder conditions in Regensburg and Munich.

I’d pack layers rather than relying on one heavy outfit every day.

Don’t fill every hour with Christmas markets

After several days of visiting Christmas markets, we were ready for something different. 

Exploring Nuremberg Castle, browsing Regensburg’s independent shops and visiting BMW Welt gave us a welcome break from the stalls. 

I’d leave some free time in your itinerary rather than trying to visit every market.

Concentrate on one region

If you’re planning a German Christmas market trip, I’d recommend focusing on one region rather than trying to squeeze in cities across the country. 

We stuck to Bavaria, visiting Nuremberg, Regensburg and Munich, and I’m so glad we did. 

The short train journeys meant we could spend more time exploring the markets and less time travelling with our luggage. Trying to fit Berlin, Hamburg and Munich into the same week would have felt far more rushed.

FAQs about German Christmas markets

Can you visit Nuremberg, Regensburg and Munich without a car?

Yes. We travelled between all three cities by train and explored most of the Christmas markets on foot.

It’s a convenient route if you don’t want to hire a car.

Which city is best for traditional German Christmas Markets?

Of the three cities we visited, I’d choose Nuremberg.

The historic setting, decorated streets and traditional market atmosphere made it my favourite overall.

Are German Christmas Markets good for vegetarians and vegans?

Absolutely.

In my experience, Germany on the whole is excellent when catering to vegans.

We found a variety of options, including lebkuchen, potato dishes, Käsespätzle, corn on the cob and festive drinks.

We also dined at several vegan restaurants during the trip.

However, always check ingredients with vendors, as some traditional dishes contain meat or other animal products.

Would I do this Christmas market trip again?

If you’re looking for a German Christmas market itinerary that combines traditional markets, historic cities and easy train journeys, I’d recommend spending a week exploring Nuremberg, Regensburg and Munich.

Nuremberg was my favourite city for its cosy, traditional Christmas atmosphere, but Thurn und Taxis Palace in Regensburg was easily my favourite individual Christmas market. Regensburg also surprised me with its lovely old town and independent shops, while Munich offered something different with its grand architecture and varied festive stalls.

Spending two nights in each city gave us enough time to explore without constantly rushing, and travelling by train made the route straightforward.

My biggest piece of advice would be to enjoy the smaller markets as much as the famous ones, leave room for spontaneous discoveries and, if possible, arrange your flights so you don’t need to backtrack on the final day.

It was a memorable introduction to Christmas markets abroad, and I’d happily return to Bavaria at Christmas.

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Read more about planning a trip to Germany:

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• 7 Day German Christmas Market Itinerary by Train in Bavaria